Fine Wine Review n.113 – 2006
BAROLO VILLERO 90(+)/B+
2001 BAROLO SANTO STEFANO DI PERNO 90/B+
2001 BAROLO MONPRIVATO 95/A+
Mascarello, too, has no 2002 Barolo, as all was sold off to negociants. The Barolo Villero, is still closed in the nose, but is very fine, light, and harmonious in the mouth with dusty cherry fruit. 2011-2030. The Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno shows more structure and depth, but less finesse. The fruits is almost, but not quite, kirsch, and the wine does not, gratefully, go over the top. 2011-2031. Last the Barolo Monprivato shows the power of the Santo Stefano and the elegance of the Villero. Once can enjoy it already. but it will age well. 2012-2032.
2003 BARBERA SCUDETTO DI MONFORTE D’ALBA 87/A
2003 BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO MONFORTE D’ALBA 88/A
2003 BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE CODANE DI MONFORTE D’ALBA 90/A+
2003 FREISA TOETTA 87/A+
1999 STATUS 90/A 2003 LANGHE NEBBIOLO 88/B+
1999 BAROLO MONPRIVATO 93(+)/A+
1996 BAROLO MONPRIVATO CA’ MORISSIO 96/A+
Mauro and Giuseppe Mascarello not only make some of the greatest Barolo in Piedmont, but a variety of other excellent wines, too, all in the most traditional style. The 2003 Barbera Scudetto di Monforte d’Alba is smooth and silky with animal red fruits and a round body. This wine is very forthcoming. No new wood here. The 2003 Barbera d’Alba superiore, Santo Stefano di Monforte d’Alba shows a gamy nose, followed by more depth and structure in the mouth than the previous wine. This serious wine with lovely dark fruits, especially blueberries.
The rarest of the three Barbera reviewed here is the 2003 Barbera d’Alba superiore Codane (only about 80 cases produced), but if you come across it, bite. This comes from 100 year-old vines and shows complex dark fruit with a velvet texture. Exceptional. Mascarello is one of the few to make a still wine from the Freisa grape. The 2003 Freisa Toetta is round abd deep with good tannins and peppery dark fruit. The Status is a blend, primarily of Nebbiolo, but with some Barbera and a touch of Freisa thrown. The 1999 Status is a mixture of roughly 70% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera, and 5% Freisa.
The wine is gamy and truffly in the nose, and smooth with red cherry fruit in the mouth. I’d guess drink it over the next 2-5 years. Last, the 2003 Langhe Nebbiolo is very pure in its red cherry fruit and it has round tannins making for a delicious wine to drink over the next 4-5 years. The Barolo Monprivato, from Mascarello’s monopole vineyard, is leathery and gamy in the nose, it shows elegance and depth together with red fruits on the palate, with some chewiness but also finesse. This wine has begun to move on to secondary flavors and aromas. 2010-2035. Finally, the Barolo, Ca’ Morissio is a special portion of the Monprivato. The wine shows depth, complexity, and some gaminess in the nose which only adds to the complexity. In the mouth, the wine is still a baby, but there is so much depth, complexity, power and finesse all combined that one cannot help but be astounded by this wine. 2015-2040.